The symphony of a great restaurant

Da dada dum – da dada dum – we all know how the opening notes of Beethoven’s Fifth symphony transport the listener to new levels, expressing the very being of the composer and all that has made him who he is.

Such is the case as well with an amazing meal. From the moment of arrival and greeting to the first sip of a beverage and through the myriad flavors and nuances of each course, the diner becomes one with the chef. The connection is sensual and even erotic, as well as provacative, satiating and transformative.
Very few meals achieve this level. Great restaurants are few and far between and memorable experiences in which all of the elements – the warmth of the hospitality, the professionalism of the staff, the creativity of the chef – come together are rare. But sometimes, everything meshes in a perfect symphony.
Such was the case for me recently when I had the privilege of dining at Boston’s L’Espalier.
A guest and I enjoyed this treat as we celebrated 11 years of friendship. The meal was amazing, from the butter served with a choice of breads to the extraordinary quality of each and every ingredient, many of them locally sourced.

Chefs at this level of dining weave the skills of the trade with the person they have become throughout the years, expressing themselves through their food, the ambience of their restaurant, the service of their staff.

When Frank McClelland made the decision to move L’Espalier from its home in a Back Bay townhouse where it had reached iconic stature, there were those who thought the risk was too big. and that the move would prove a mistake.

“It’s not the old L’Espalier,” a friend complained to me after the shift to the new Mandarin Oriental was complete.

And it’s not – it’s a restaurant for the 21st century with its contemporary design and décor, and it’s also an environment that serves both staff and guests better than the old location. A greatly enlarged kitchen is a just small piece of the improved working conditions. Others include better workflow, lower noise levels and more private dining spaces.

The goal, McClelland says, is to take L’Espalier to new levels. He’s off to a great start, proving that it pays to have the courage of one’s convictions.

The meals that come from the new kitchen linger in memory, perhaps because they connect with the diner in a deep and very real way. Not that the meals from the old L'Espalier did not. But in a world too often made up of superficial relationships as we rush through our hectic, overcrowded and stressful lives, this very genuine connection becomes a beacon and shines light on what might be, what is possible.

How often do we reach out to others and say ‘this is who I am and I am sharing it with you’ because you are special?

Restaurants that achieve this level of connection with the guests engender loyalty, repeat business, and not so incidentally, shine with success. The dining experience is a treat not quickly forgotten.
Your soul-searching, Frank, has paid off well. Thank you!

Tags: connecting, customers, frank, great, l'espalier, mcclelland, restaurants, with

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Comment by susan holaday on August 28, 2009 at 4:40am: My friend, Paul Green, of TemporaryChef.com did his own blog from the BOH side on the 'ballet' at the back of the house. He notes that that ballet is "unknown" to most of the patrons out in the FOH - I don't think so. I've had the privilege of walking through the L'Espalier kitchen at 'prime time' and have seen the quiet ballet taking place, but I think in today's world of sophisticated diners, many are well aware that the kitchen is it's own performance arena that makes possible the music at the front of the house.

Comment by susan holaday on August 27, 2009 at 6:31pm: Exactly the same is true at L'Espalier's kitchen - it shares it too with its sister restaurant, Sel de la Terre, which opened a new one back-to-back with it in the Mandarin Oriental. Let me know when you're in Boston- maybe we can meet.

Comment by Steve Paterson on August 27, 2009 at 5:59pm: Susan...sounds awesome!

I've eaten at the old location more than a couple times and was never disappointed.
Will have to try the new one next time I get up there, which will be in about 6 weeks.

I love your analogy of symphony!, It's a perfect way to describe a well run restaurant.
The maestro might be the chef in one place and a GM in another. Sometimes you might even have two maestros, one for the Foh and one for the Boh.....you could almost consider that a dueling piano situation...where they compliment each other rather than actually 'compete'.

One of my favorite dining locations here in Tampa is the local Roy's.

Even when the place is packed on a busy Friday night, the bar is crowded and a lot of people are waiting......the open kitchen is eerily silent, yet pumping out mass quantities of perfection.

The silence of symphony, I guess.

Comment by Rod Guinn on August 27, 2009 at 1:50pm: Susan --
I haven't been in Boston in almost a year. Yo made me hungry for L'Espalier all over again!
And you're right -- a meal like this is like a performance, and the composer, conductor, and participants alike share the credit when it all comes together.
rod

Comment by Michael Biesemeyer: Your FohBro on August 26, 2009 at 1:06pm: How often do we reach out to others and say ‘this is who I am and I am sharing it with you’ because you are special?

This is the essence of serving others. What a powerful statement/concept.

Comment by Debra Straka on August 26, 2009 at 9:22am: Those who are the biggest successes take the biggest risks. How easy it would have been to sit back and rest on the success of the "old L'Espalier." Frank McClelland reminds us to never be complacent and satisfied with the status quo. His brave spirit will continue to wow his patrons for many years.
Thanks for the terrific reminder Susan.