The information below is a combination of sources and some of my own word crafting. Its from my newsletter and I am always interested in learning from you.
Cheeses have "seasons" and like wines, they can have vintages too. Many cheeses are not available year round, and sometimes, cheeses are far superior then other times of the year. Why? Animals responsible for artisnal cheese productions (typically) do not provide a consistent milk supply year round. By "consistent" we mean that the milk profile does not remain steady as the grass grows shorter and goats begin looking for other nourishment. For example, they may begin nibblling on twigs and nuts, quite different from the milk profile found after goats feed on the lush green grass during the first days of spring. The art of the cheese maker is to establish consistency through numerous methods, but that is whole other story.
As for vintage, every dairy region is affected by weather and the climate should never be discounted. Additionally, cheese makers may alter their recipes and production methods based on the year's relationship with mother nature. A new vat or other change in equipment, or even a new cheesemaker brought on board can have a profound difference on a cheese. These subtle variables can alter the character of handmade, artisnal cheeses you fell in love with years ago. Don't forget to take into consideration your changing pallate, the storage responsibilities of the retailer (good or bad), and your new favorite wine pairings, these all have an affect. So what can we do?
First, keep an open mind and don't be afraid to give cheeses a second or third chance. Ask questions of your favorite cheesemonger. Here are a few of my favorites. Is this cheese is a good specimen? Is it at optimum flavor? How does it compare to other times of the year? If there is a hesitation, take a moment to listen, you may be given a little tour of his favorite new cheeses... but no promises. I have found a few buying rules and listed them below, that's if they apply to you. Happy hunting and don't be afraid to explore...
Therefore a few milk cheese buying rules:
1. Avoid chevres from about mid-December.
2. Cow's milk soft ripened cheeses (brie style) should be at their best. (perfect for new years)
3. This is a good time for washed rind (surface ripened) made of cow or sheep's milk.
4. Go for the natural rind blues such as Stilton, the traditional Persilles (made by by Hevre Mons, available at Whole Foods) of the Haut-Savoie. Not the best time for Roquefort.
5. 18 month cheddars should be perfect now, as will 9 month Double Gloucesters.
6. Many semi-soft cheeses with bloomy rinds or washes will taste good up to about the end of February.
So if you have any comments please share them on the subject.
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Warmest, Brady Lowe